Corneotherapy and Dermaviduals
Using corneotherapy to improve skin barrier function is the first step in results driven skin care.
What is corneotherapy?
Corneotherapy is a treatment concept that aims to repair and maintain the outermost horny layer of the skin (the stratum corneum), which will in turn improve the skin’s barrier function and following that it’s overall homeostasis. Think of the stratum corneum (SC) like the roof of a house – if the roof is damaged and letting in the elements, there is no point doing repair work to the rooms below until that is fixed. Dermaviduals is a true corneotherapeutic product, as its unique Dermal Membrane System physically repairs the damaged stratum corneum and there are no ingredients which cause irritation or damage to the skin.
For many years scientists have viewed the stratum corneum as just a layer of dead cells, and therapists have spent their time taking off as much of it as possible with exfoliating and skin resurfacing treatments. But now there is a new understanding of the importance of preserving this vital layer of skin cells, and there are very few occasions where thinning down the epidermis is actually beneficial.
Professor A. G. Kligman, who is considered the founder of cosmeceuticals (products that bridge the gap between cosmetics and pharmeceuticals), coined the term “corneotherapy” in the early ‘90’s, having spent decades researching this idea. He has found that using the appropriate moisturisers and lipids can rebuild the horny layer and further the regeneration of the deeper skin layers. The recovery of the skin will also help in preventing premature aging.
Why do we need corneotherapy?
In recent years there has been a rise in skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and acne, all of which are conditions related to inflammation. The skin’s barrier is designed to protect the underlying layers from attack from outside aggressors, but when it is impaired it can’t do this function properly. This results in allergens getting past the outer layer of cells where they can trigger the immune response, leading to inflammation.
How does the skin’s barrier get impaired?
This can happen either through using products which strip the skin of its natural oils, or in some cases people can be born with a genetic mutation that predisposes them to having an impaired skin barrier.
Most products on the market today contain emulsifiers. Emulsifiers have previously been overlooked as an ingredient, simply being there to bind the oil and water phases in the product together, and their influence on the skin was not considered. In the past few decades it has been shown that emulsifiers can penetrate the stratum corneum, binding with the oil in the lipid bilayers. When the skin is then washed, they bind with the water that is used and “wash out” the oil from the bilayers, creating physical gaps in the skin barrier and leaving it feeling dry and tight. Other factors that contribute to barrier function impairment include over-exfoliating, over-cleansing, having insufficient omega 3 oil in the diet, not drinking enough water, and spending a lot of time in either centrally heated or air-conditioned spaces. The last three all relate to what is commonly known as dehydration, which also influences the barrier function. This is not an exhaustive list but just some of the most common issues that create the problem.
The factors listed above are all things which will affect healthy, normal skins and create problems. There have been recent studies which show that some people are born with a genetic mutation (filaggrin deficiency) which pre-disposes them to developing eczema as their skin’s barrier function is already impaired, needing no help from external factors. These people have problems with skin sensitivity from an early age but if they use products that are helping to strengthen their skin then the problem should be greatly reduced, possibly preventing more severe conditions from developing in later life.
Lipid bilayers act to slow down water loss from the skin.
The lipids, or fats, that make up the lipid bilayers which are found in the very outermost layers of cells in the SC are vital to good skin health. They are a bi-product of the differentiation of the epidermal cells as they travel up from the base of the epidermis and become corneocytes (the very last stage skin cells go through before they are shed) and act to slow down the movement of water from deep inside the skin to the outside atmosphere (otherwise known as trans-epidermal water loss or TEWL). Even if you are drinking the recommended 2 litres of water a day, if your skin doesn’t have enough of these fats present, then water will evaporate out too quickly. Why is this relevant? There are many enzymatic processes going on all the time in your skin, and they all need the presence of water to happen. This includes the shedding of old, dead skin cells – so if you haven’t got enough of the correct fats (omega 3’s) in your diet, and/or you are using skincare with emulsifiers in it, your skin won’t have enough oil to slow down the transit of water. This leads to a build up of dead skin cells on the surface, and a rough, dry and flaky appearance. Many would then reach for the nearest exfoliant in order to get rid of this problem, but in fact if your skin care supports your skin’s natural functioning then most people wouldn’t ever need one, as a properly functioning skin sheds dead cells without any external help.
Dermaviduals is the first skincare range to embrace the concept of corneotherapy and bespoke skincare.
Even though vitamins are vital skincare ingredients, which work brilliantly in treating a range of concerns from acne to aging, they aren’t the only things that a skin requires to function properly. The first consideration is to make sure that the barrier function is operating at its best, allowing all the other functions to in turn operate at their best.
Where Dermaviduals is so unique is that the structure of the DMS (Dermal Membrane System) creams mimics the structure of the lipid bilayers present in the stratum corneum. Rather than sitting on the surface and occluding the skin, the cream melts into the outer layers and repairs the damaged lipid bilayers. This in turn slows down trans epidermal water loss, leaving the skin plump and glowing. In addition, actives can be added to the base creams, creating a moisturiser or serum that is tailored to your specific skin concern. These actives are mostly in nanoparticle and liposome format, penetrating the stratum corneum easily to reach the targeted skin cells, effectively delivering their treatment.
